Front Envelope Pocket Style Diaper

The inspiration for this post came from a Facebook group I am in called Fluff Love Sewing. I guess you can said I am pretty experienced in the diaper making world. Over the past 4 years I have tried to sew it all. There is a pretty popular blog out there that has several diaper patterns and even her own tutorials. I decided to try one of them and was asked to show how I did it! So without further ado...

You will need:

• PUL (polyurethane laminate) 
• Microfleece or Suedecloth
• Sewing Machine
• 90/14 Ballpoint needle
• Coordinating Thread
• 3/8" Poly-braided Elastic
• Snaps (and velcro if you prefer)
• A place to lay out your materials
• Pattern - All rights, dibs, whatever else I am missing goes to Arfy and her blog.

Today I am doing the OS (one size) Squaretab Front Opening Envelope Pocket Diaper.

Step 1: Cut out your materials needed for your diaper. Add your snaps (velcro).

Here I have cut my outside (PUL layer), my inside microfleece layers, and my flap for the front opening pocket (also PUL) using the free pattern from the links above. Also, go ahead and add your notions. Snaps/Velcro to the outside PUL layer. You can find a tutorial on adding snaps & velcro here.

For my flap piece, I cut 3.5" x 11.5". 

Step 2: Sew your finished edges.

You are going to sew your flap PUL piece under .5" and your microfleece piece under 1".

This insures that when the pieces are put together they will not overlap and be sewn together closing the pocket opening. 

Step 3: Add your layers together and clip.

You will add all three layers together in this step. 

• 1st Layer: PUL outside facing up.
• 2nd Layer: PUL Flap facing down at the front of the diaper.
• 3rd Layer: Microfleece on top of other two face down.
• Clip together!

2nd Layer

3rd layer

You will see at the top that the microfleece does not reach the top of the front of the diaper. This is the correct positioning. You do not want these pieces lined up. 

Clip Together

Step 4: Sew your seam allowance

This pattern calls for a 3/8" seam allowance. In this step you will sew all the way around the diaper using the allotted seam allowance. 

As you can see the microfleece was not sewn to the top of the diaper.

At this point you have your front opening pocket

Step 5: It's all about elastic!

In this step we will work on attaching the elastic to the diaper and also learning how to figure out how much elastic you need. First you need to make sure all of your elastic points have been marked on your diaper. I use a permanent sharpie. Its just a preference of mine. 

Next, you will figure out how much elastic you need. So let's see how well I can explain this. In this pattern there are 7" between the elastic marks for the back of the diaper and 10" for the legs of the diaper.

Back Elastic Marks

Leg Elastic Marks

I know that my elastic (that I use) double itself when it's fully stretched. So for 7" of stretch, I only need 3.5" of elastic. For 10" of stretch, I only need 5" of elastic. I know this because I have worked with my elastic for a long time. To find out how much elastic you will need. Hold on side of your elastic at the start of your measuring tape and then stretch it (to it's fullest) to the 7" mark. Hold on to that spot. Once it is back to it's resting place, you should have the amount of elastic you need.(This might be confusing. If so let me know, I will try to post a video of what I mean.) Then you repeat for the leg elastic.

Tack down your elastic.

Back Elastic Tacked into diaper with a zig zag stitch.

Legs & Back elastic tacked in. Seam allowances cut to approx 1/4"

At this point you will also cut your seam allowances to approx 1/4". Make sure to clip the corners short.

Step 5: Turning and Top Stitching

We are finished with the inside of the diaper. It's time to turn it right side out using your pocket opening.

Turned right side out

There really isn't much form to the diaper yet as you can see. That will come when we finish the diaper off with a top stitch and encase the elastics. But first, make sure you have all your corners, wing tabs pushed all the way out of the diaper. You want all seams to be laying flat.

I always start my top stitch at the top of the diaper. I will need to back stitch twice at this point and that is easily hid by the wings of the diaper. I am now ready to use my machine.

Top stitch at the front. Snaps were really close so it messed me up a bit.

I top stitch using an 1/8" allowance from the edge. Top stitch across the top and around the side until you get to your first tacked elastic at the legs. Stop with your needle down. 

Rotate your diaper 90 degrees and stitch out 1/2". (This is starting your elastic casing. I prefer to use 1/2" because it helps ensure I don't catch my elastic. It is okay to use 3/8" here as well). Rotate your fabric back to the correct position but now you have a 1/2" allowance for your casing.

Pull your elastic tight while holding the diaper at the top and help guide it through your machine using that 1/2" allowance. Make sure to keep your seams flat so you don't have microfleece curling to the outside. Sew until you reach the other end of your elastic. Then stop, needle down.

Pulling your elastic tight & keeping your seams flat.

Sew your 1/2" allowance until you reach the other end of your tacked in allowance

Rotate your diaper 90 degrees to stitch back out to the edge of the diaper. Stitch back to 1/8". Stop, needle down.

Step 6: Finish Top Stitching your diaper.

Now that you know how to case your diaper elastic, you will repeat the steps on the rest of the diaper. Keep an 1/8" allowance for the top stitch and move out to 1/2" (or 3/8" if you prefer) on your elastics. Don't forget to backstitch once you reach your starting point. This is what your finished diaper should look like. Add your wingsnaps and you are finished. Just wash and dry with your regular diaper laundry to get rid of the chemical and gunk left from manufacturing and it's ready to wear (after it's stuffed with an absorbent material!)